Follow Delia Smith's countdown to Christmas day for perfect bird with trimmings

June 2024 · 20 minute read

CHRISTMAS DAY

EARLY AM: WHAT TIME IS LUNCH? 

The specific timings that follow are those tested over the years in our house, but because lunch time will vary from one family to another you can adjust these timings to suit yourself.

With young children you will doubtless be up early and want to eat lunch reasonably early; with older children it's not quite so important to open the presents at the first light of dawn!

Follow Delia Smith's foolproof countdown to Christmas day for the perfect bird with all the trimmings

Follow Delia Smith's foolproof countdown to Christmas day for the perfect bird with all the trimmings

For an average family-sized 6.5kg (14lb 5oz) turkey (oven-ready weight) I am calculating for a 2pm lunch. If you plan to eat half an hour later or earlier, simply add or subtract 30 minutes to or from my timings.

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TRADITIONAL ROAST TURKEY: For a 6.5kg (14lb 5oz) turkey 

It's only dangerous to put turkey stuffing inside the body cavity if either the turkey or the stuffing is not defrosted properly, because the heat will not penetrate it quickly enough. If both are at room temperature it is perfectly safe.

7.45am 

Preheat the oven to 220°C/gas 7. First stuff the turkey with your chosen stuffing. Loosen the skin with your hands and pack the stuffing into the neck end, pushing it up between the flesh and the skin towards the breast (not too tightly, because it will expand during the cooking).

For an average family-sized 6.5kg (14lb 5oz) turkey (oven-ready weight) I am calculating for a 2pm lunch. If you plan to eat half an hour later or earlier, simply add or subtract 30 minutes to or from my timings

For an average family-sized 6.5kg (14lb 5oz) turkey (oven-ready weight) I am calculating for a 2pm lunch. If you plan to eat half an hour later or earlier, simply add or subtract 30 minutes to or from my timings

Press it in gently to make a nicely rounded end, then tuck the neck flap under the bird's back and secure with a small skewer or some cocktail sticks. Don't expect to get all the stuffing in this end – put the rest into the body cavity.

Now arrange two large sheets of foil across your roasting tin, one widthways and the other lengthways (no need to butter them). Lay the turkey on its back in the centre, then rub it generously all over with the butter, making sure the thigh bones are particularly well covered. Next season the bird all over and lay the bacon over the breast with the rashers overlapping. I always put some over the legs as well.

Now wrap the turkey loosely in the foil. The parcel must be firmly sealed but roomy enough to provide an air space around most of the upper part of the bird. So bring one piece of foil up and fold both ends over to make a pleat along the length of the breastbone.

Then bring the other piece up at both ends and crimp and fold to make a neat parcel.

PRINCIPLES OF TURKEY COOKING

Many people have their own favourite way to cook turkey, usually because it's the way they were taught. I'm sure there is no best way, and I offer you the method here simply because it has always worked well for me and countless others.

The turkey is placed in a 'tent' of foil, which essentially means it cooks in an oven within an oven. If you wrap the foil too closely to the turkey, though, it ends up steaming instead of roasting.

Give it plenty of space between the flesh and the foil and it will roast in its own buttery juices without becoming dry. This method keeps all the juices intact. 

If you allow the bird to rest for 30-45 minutes before carving all the juices which have bubbled up to the surface will seep back and ensure the meat is moist and succulent. 

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8.15am 

Place the turkey in the preheated oven, where it will cook at the initial high temperature for 40 minutes. Once it is in, you can peel the potatoes ready for roasting and keep them covered with cold water in a saucepan. Because of the sausagemeat in the stuffing and the bacon rashers already on the bird, we don't serve bacon rolls and chipolatas. But if you do, now is the time to prepare them as follows: brush a shallow baking tray with oil and arrange the sausages on it in two rows.

For the bacon rolls, stretch the rinded rashers out as far as you can, then roll them up very tightly, thread on to long flat skewers and place them next to the chipolatas and pop them all back in the fridge ready to go in the oven at 1.15pm.

Now begin making the Traditional Bread Sauce (see below) and leave in a warm place for the milk to infuse for 2 hours or more (see 11.45am).

TRADITIONAL BREAD SAUCE

Serves 8

Cut the onion in half and stick the cloves in it (how many you use is a personal matter – I happen to like a pronounced flavour of cloves). If you don’t like them at all, you can use some freshly grated nutmeg instead.

Place the onion studded with cloves, plus the bay leaf and the peppercorns, in a saucepan together with the milk. Add some salt, then bring everything up to boiling point. Take off the heat, cover the pan and leave in a warm place for the milk to infuse for 2 hours or more.

Remove the onion, bay leaf and peppercorns, and keep the onion on one side. Stir the breadcrumbs into the milk and add half of the butter.

Leave the saucepan on a very low heat, stirring now and then, until the crumbs have swollen and thickened the sauce – approximately 15 minutes.

Now replace the clove-studded onion and again leave the pan in a warm place till the sauce is needed (see below). Just before serving, remove the onion and spices and squeeze it between two saucers to extract all the juice.

Reheat gently, then beat in the cream and taste to check the seasoning. Pour into a warm serving jug and dot the remaining butter on top and keep warm until needed. Then stir in the butter before serving.

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8.55AM 

Lower the oven temperature to 170°C/ gas 3. Now take a break! At this point everything should be under control, so you can take time out of the kitchen to help the kids unwrap their presents, have a coffee or tidy the house. After that, prepare and set the lunch table, making sure you have all the right glasses for pre-lunch drinks as well as the table. It's a good idea to arrange the coffee tray now, too, and line up the brandy and liqueur glasses.

Pop the plates and serving dishes into the warming oven, and don't forget to warm a large plate for the turkey.

11.45AM 

Now is the time to finish off the Bread Sauce (see recipe above).

12 NOON 

If you are serving a traditional Christmas pudding, fill a saucepan quite full with boiling water, put it on the heat and, when it comes back to the boil, place a steamer on top of the pan and turn it down to a gentle simmer. Put the pudding in the steamer, cover and leave to steam away until 2.15pm. You'll need to check the water from time to time and maybe top it up a bit.

12.15PM 

The pudding brings us, naturally enough, to the Rum Sauce whose time has now come. Make it following the recipe below.

CHRISTMAS RUM SAUCE

Serves 8

Place 60g (2¼oz) of the butter in a saucepan with the flour, pour in the milk, then, using a balloon whisk, whisk everything vigorously together over a medium heat. As soon as it comes to simmering point and has thickened, turn the heat right down to its lowest setting, stir in the sugar and let the sauce cook for 10 minutes. After that, add the rum and the cream.

Pour the hot sauce into a jug and dot the remaining butter over the top of the hot sauce, then cover the surface with clingfilm and keep warm until required and whisk before serving. 

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12.30PM 

Increase the oven temperature to 200°C/gas 6. Now get some help, because you've got to lift the turkey out of the oven and it's heavy! Remove the foil from the top and sides of the bird and take off the bacon slices. Baste the turkey thoroughly with a longhandled spoon, then return it to the oven for 30-45 minutes to finish browning, basting it as much as you can during this final cooking period.

The bacon can be placed on a heatproof plate and put back in the oven for 15-20 minutes to finish cooking till all the fat has melted and there are just very crisp bits left. (I like to serve these crunchy bits with the turkey instead of bacon rolls.)

12.45PM 

After you've dealt with the turkey, parboil and fluff up the potatoes following my recipe for Perfect Roast Potatoes below. Then place their roasting tin in the oven with the turkey.

PERFECT ROAST POTATOES

The amounts here are not vital because it depends on who's greedy and who is on a diet and so on, but I find that 225g (8oz) per person is enough ¿ yielding three each and a few extras for inevitable second helpings! I like Desiree best of all, but my second choice would be Romano

The amounts here are not vital because it depends on who's greedy and who is on a diet and so on, but I find that 225g (8oz) per person is enough – yielding three each and a few extras for inevitable second helpings! I like Desiree best of all, but my second choice would be Romano

Serves 8

Preheat the oven to 220°C/ gas 7. First place the roasting tray with the fat in it on the highest shelf of the oven while it preheats.

Thinly peel the potatoes using a potato peeler, then cut them into fairly even-sized pieces, leaving the smaller ones whole.

Then place them in a saucepan, pour over boiling water from a kettle, just to cover, then add salt and simmer for about 10 minutes. After that lift one out with a skewer and see if the outer edge is fluffy. You can test this by running the point of the skewer along the surface – if it stays smooth, give it a few more minutes. Then drain off the water, reserving some for the gravy.

Place the lid back on the saucepan, and, holding the lid on firmly with your hand protected by a cloth or oven-glove, shake the saucepan vigorously up and down. This shaking roughens up the cooked edges of the potato and makes them floury and fluffy – this is the secret of the crunchy edges.

Now, still using the oven-glove to protect your hands, remove the hot roasting tray containing its sizzling fat and transfer to the direct heat (medium) on the hob. Then use a long-handled spoon and quickly lower the potatoes into the hot fat.

When they are all in, tilt the tray and baste each one so it’s completely coated with fat. Now place them back on the highest shelf of the oven and leave them unattended for 40-50 minutes or until they are golden brown.

There’s no need to turn them over at half-time – they will brown evenly by themselves. Sprinkle them with a little crushed salt before serving straight away; they lose their crunch if you keep them waiting. If they’re ready before you are, turn the oven off and leave them inside. 

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1PM 

Now for the parsnips. Parboil for 10 minutes (or see my recipe for Parsnips with a Mustard & Maple Glaze below) then take another roasting tray and add 3 tablespoons of oil and 1 tablespoon of butter to it and place the roasting tray over direct heat. 

When the butter and oil are hot, add the parsnips and baste them in the same way as the potatoes. By now it will be time for the turkey to come out of the oven.

PARSNIPS WITH A MUSTARD AND MAPLE GLAZE

People who normally don't like parsnips like this recipe. It's a very good combination of flavours, and if you get bored with plain roast parsnips in winter, this is just what’s needed.

Serves 4-6

For the glaze

Preheat the oven to 240°C/gas 9. Top, tail and peel the parsnips then cut them in half through the centre.

Cut the top half into 4 and the bottom half into 2 so that you have even-sized pieces. Cut out any woody stems from the centre, then place the parsnips in the steamer, sprinkle with salt, cover with a lid and steam over simmering water for 6 minutes. Meanwhile put the baking tray containing the oil on the top shelf of the oven to pre-heat.

When the parsnips are ready, use an oven-glove to remove the baking tray very carefully from the oven so as not to spill the oil, and place it over direct heat turned to low. Add the parsnips, rounded side up, to the sizzling oil.

Then tilt the tray and use a large spoon to baste the parsnips to make sure they are evenly coated with the oil. Give them a good grinding of pepper and return the tray to the oven. Bake for 25 minutes, by which time the parsnips should be nicely browned and crispy.

Meanwhile make the glaze – mix the mustard and maple syrup together in a bowl then, using a brush, coat the parsnip pieces with a liberal coating of the glaze and return them to the oven for 8-10 minutes. Serve straight away. 

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1.15PM 

Remove the turkey from the oven (see panel below for how to check the turkey is cooked) and increase the temperature to 230°C/gas 8.

COOKING TIMES FOR OTHER SIZED TURKEYS

3.5kg-4.5kg (7lb 8oz-9lb 10oz) turkey 30 minutes at 220°C/gas 7, then 2½-3 hours at 170°C/gas 3, and a final 30 minutes (uncovered) at 200°C/gas 6.

6.75kg-9kg (14lb 8oz-19lb 8oz) turkey 45 minutes at 220°C/gas 7, then 4-5 hours at 170°C/gas 3, and a final 30 minutes (uncovered) at 200°C/gas 6.

Please bear in mind that ovens and turkeys themselves vary and the only one sure way to know your turkey is cooked is to pierce the thickest part of the leg with a thin skewer, the juices running out of it should be golden and clear (there should be no trace of pinkness). You can also give the leg a little tug to make sure there is some give in it.

All Delia's recipes are thoroughly tested using conventional ovens. For fan assisted ovens, if you cannot switch off the fan function, we suggest you reduce the temperature by 20°C, or check the manufacturer's handbook. We also strongly recommend you use an oven thermometer.

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Place the parsnips on the middle shelf of the oven (with the potatoes on the top) and the chipolatas and bacon rolls on the lowest shelf or floor of the oven. 

Transfer the turkey to a warm serving plate: it will be fine left to rest in the kitchen temperature for up to 50 minutes, loosely covered with double foil, without losing its heat.

GIBLET STOCK

However unpromising the giblets look, they make a wonderful stock for the turkey gravy

However unpromising the giblets look, they make a wonderful stock for the turkey gravy

First wash the giblets and put them in a saucepan with the halved onion, then cover with the water and bring up to simmering point. After removing any surface scum with a draining spoon, add the remaining ingredients, half cover the pan with a lid and simmer for 1½-2 hours. Then strain the stock, cool and store, covered, in the fridge.

I always think that it’s when the giblet stock is simmering that you get the first fragrant aromas of Christmas lunch, which fill you with the pleasure of anticipation! 

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Next pour the giblet stock into a pan and allow it to heat up gently. Tip the turkey fat from the foil into the tin, discard the foil, then spoon off all the excess fat from the roasting tin into a bowl.

This fat is precious: it's wonderful for sautéing potatoes, and have you ever tried turkey jelly and dripping spread on hot slices of toast and sprinkled with salt and pepper? A wonderful Boxing Day breakfast treat!

Next make the giblet gravy. When you have spooned off the excess fat and juices from the roasting tin and only 2-3 tablespoons of fat are left, work about 2 level tablespoons flour into this (scraping all the residue from the base and sides of the tin) over a low heat.

Now, using a balloon whisk, whisk in the giblet stock, bit by bit, until you have a smooth gravy. Let it bubble and reduce a little to concentrate the flavour and taste and season. Then pour into a warmed jug and keep warm.

1.30PM 

Turn the chipolatas and bacon rolls over, then you are free for a few minutes to go and have a pre-lunch glass of champagne. You deserve it.

1.45PM 

Now cook the sprouts in a steamer (or just cover with boiling water), add salt and cook for 5-6 minutes, then drain in a colander (or see my Sautéed Brussels Sprouts with Chestnuts recipe below). While the sprouts are cooking, summon the carver and get all hands on deck to help dish up. And don't forget that lovely stuffing inside the turkey!

SAUTEED BRUSSELS SPROUTS WITH CHESTNUTS

This is a long-standing Christmas favourite and I love the brown and caramelised edges of the sprouts and the sweetness of the chestnuts

This is a long-standing Christmas favourite and I love the brown and caramelised edges of the sprouts and the sweetness of the chestnuts

Serves 4

First, put a medium pan of water on to boil. Blanch the Brussels sprouts for 30 seconds and drain them well. Now, peel the shallots (or peel the onion and finely chop it, in a mini chopper if you have one). Heat the butter in a large frying pan and, when it's foaming, add the shallots or onion and fry for 2 minutes over a medium heat until slightly softened.

Next, add the sprouts and some seasoning. Cook for about 6-8 minutes, stirring them around, until the shallots or onion and sprouts are looking slightly brown and caramelised and are cooked through.

Lastly, add the chestnuts and cook for 3-4 minutes until the chestnuts are hot, then pile everything into a warm serving dish.

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2PM 

Lunch is served. Bon appétit!

A LITTLE LATER 

Remove the Christmas pudding from the steamer (if making one) and take off the wrapping. Slide a palette knife all round the pudding, then turn it out on to a warmed plate. Place a suitably sized sprig of holly on top.

Now warm a ladleful of brandy over direct heat and, as soon as the brandy is hot, turn out the flame and ask someone to set light to it using a long match.

Place the ladle, now gently flaming, on top of the pudding – but don't pour it over until you reach the table. (If you don't have a gas hob, warm the brandy in a small saucepan.) When you do, pour it slowly over the pudding, sides and all, and watch it flame to the cheers of the assembled company!

When both flames and cheers have died down, serve the pudding with Christmas Rum Sauce (see recipe above) or Cumberland Rum or Brandy Butter (see recipe below). 

CUMBERLAND RUM OR BRANDY BUTTER

Cumberland Rum Butter is excellent served with hot mince pies. Brandy Butter is an alternative to serve with Christmas pudding

Cumberland Rum Butter is excellent served with hot mince pies. Brandy Butter is an alternative to serve with Christmas pudding

Serves 8

You can either blend the butter and sugar together till pale, soft and creamy in a food processor or else use an electric hand whisk. 

When you have a pale smooth mixture you can gradually add the rum or brandy a little at a time, beating well after each addition. Taste and add more rum or brandy if you think it needs it! Then place the butter in a container and chill thoroughly before serving.

It is important, I think, to serve this very cold, so that it can provide a wonderful contrast to the hot mince pies or pudding. It will keep for 2-3 weeks in the fridge, so it's not really worth freezing. 

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Alternatively, you may have made my Mini Christmas Puddings, see recipe below.

MINI CHRISTMAS PUDDINGS

These are made in moments with mincemeat and cooked in less than an hour, are light-textured but have all the flavours of Christmas. You don't have to make them at the last minute - they freeze beautifully and reheat like a dream

These are made in moments with mincemeat and cooked in less than an hour, are light-textured but have all the flavours of Christmas. You don't have to make them at the last minute - they freeze beautifully and reheat like a dream

Serves 4

200g (7oz) mincemeat

60g (2¼oz) self-raising flour

½ teaspoon baking powder

½ rounded teaspoon ground mixed spice

1 medium egg

25g (1oz) softened butter

40ml (1½fl oz) black treacle

55ml (2fl oz) Irish stout

1 tablespoon dark rum

40g (1½oz) Bramley apple, peeled, cored and finely diced

10g (¼oz) roasted chopped hazelnuts

75g (2¾oz) currants

The grated zest of ½ an orange

The grated zest of ½ a lemon

1 tablespoon brandy, if flaming the puddings

4 x 175ml (6fl oz) mini non-stick pudding basins, well buttered, a small shallow roasting tin, some baking parchment and foil

Preheat the oven to 180°C/gas 4. First sift the flour, baking powder and mixed spice into a medium mixing bowl, then add the egg and softened butter.

After that, measure the treacle into a glass measuring jug, add the stout and rum and mix these together. Next pour this mixture into the bowl and, using an electric hand whisk, whisk everything very thoroughly together.

Now add the apple, nuts, currants, mincemeat and, finally, the grated orange and lemon zests. Then mix everything together very thoroughly, and divide the mixture among the 4 well-buttered pudding basins.

Top each with a small circle of buttered baking parchment, followed by an 18cm (7in) square of foil large enough to fold under the edges of the basins, making a pleat all the way round to seal.

Now place the basins in the tin and pour in 2.5cm (1in) of boiling water from the kettle, then place the tin in the oven and leave to cook for 45-50 minutes, or until the puddings are springy and firm to the touch in the centre.

Then remove them from the oven, remove the foil and baking parchment and let them stand for 10 minutes before carefully running a small knife around each one to turn them out on to warm serving plates. If you want to flame the puddings, this is very easy to do and it’s guaranteed to impress your guests.

Firstly line the puddings up on a warm serving platter, then warm the brandy in a metal ladle over direct heat and, as soon as the brandy is hot, turn out the flame and ask someone to set light to it using a long match.

Place the ladle now gently flaming over one of the puddings - but don't pour the brandy over until you reach the table. (If you don’t have a gas hob, warm the brandy in a small saucepan.)

When you do, pour it slowly over all the puddings and watch them flame to the cheers of the assembled company.

Serve with Christmas Rum Sauce (see above). 

NOTE The photograph includes cranberries which look festive but are not really needed.

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Delia's Happy Christmas by Delia Smith published by Ebury Press, price £15. © Delia Smith. To order a copy for £17.50 (30% discount) visit www.mailbookshop.co.uk or call 0844 571 0640. P&P is free on orders over £15. Offer valid until 24 December 2016

Delia's Winter Collection © Delia Smith. For more Delia Christmas recipes, cookery school videos, bakeware & equipment information and stockists visit deliaonline.com 

The Delia Collection: Puddings. © Delia Smith. For more Delia Christmas recipes, cookery school videos, bakeware & equipment information and stockists visit deliaonline.com

Additional food photography by Dan Jones 

 

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